Hey, Dutch Masters,
So this is the last travel narrative (I'm thinking a retrospective blog might be in order -- you know "the 10 stupid things I did on this trip"), but this will be the last detailing of our days because we are out of days!!! 😡 After 27 days away, I will be going home tomorrow (and RR has been with me the whole way)
First, we have broken RR. 😒
You see, though I haven't mentioned it (an example of Sheldon Cooper's suffering in silence 😂) K and I both woke up Friday morning with cold symptoms. But RR has held out. Remember the man who climbed the 226 steps Sunday morning? Today he wasn't up to going out for breakfast!!! The man who eats like a hungry G-man (inside joke? :)) And, after being a trooper and doing the first two items on the day's agenda, he said he was washed and came back to the flat before numero tres. 🙁. And he didn't clean up any of the leftovers from dinner -- which looked like this.
Satay
Spring rolls
Prawn curry (one pepper heat)
Beef curry (no heat)
Chicken pa-naeng (one pepper heat)
It was all very good. We all like Thai food and Google didn't do us wrong saying this was a good one within walking distance (.5 mile) of the flat.
The day began with a quick chocolate croissant at a bakery around the corner. It was an odd chocolate croissant -- no vein of chocolate going through it, but instead chocolate poured on top. It was very messy, as you might imagine. But fresh! :)
Then we hustled off to the Anne Frank House (in Dutch "huis") for our 10 o'clock appointment.
I don't want to say they were Nazis at the Anne Frank House (that might be in poor taste), but there were multiple staff out front making sure you didn't get in line too early. For ten o'clock she told the 10 o'clocks to line up, and someone was at 10:15 and she told them to go stand back out of the way! 😂.
Despite the tough steps inside, it was a notable experience. Our barge driver later said the use of narrow, steep staircases was due to the saving of square footage in a house, and the secret annex showed it. ): I learned a lot I didn't know (I admittedly didn't know much) about her and the people hiding with her. I was surprised there were so many, or that they had so many rooms (four?). You can't believe the tight-laced Nazis missed all those square feet. OC, it was heart-rendering, as it seems she was on the last train that left Amsterdam for the transport hub before the Nazis gave up in early '45. 😢
We then Ubered over to a spot in front of the Hard Rock Cafe, where our canal tour could start. But I went in with the ticket (a ticket I didn't remember buying the night before) and the very nice woman told me it wouldn't scan. She did all she could, even making a phone call, but I was told to call Viator. In the end, I bought tickets on the boat, hoping to recoup from someone later.
The canal tour was interesting. Some genius ~1610 decided to expand the city they needed a canal system -- it took 50 years to complete. OC this is all done by hand. 😡 It starts with three parallel canals off the Amstel River (once dammed, the city there became Amsterdam) that run in a semicircle south. Then they built cross canals, then another semicircle farther out. By ~1660 they had tripled the square footage of the city. But still they needed to build all these town homes along the canals -- they were encourage to build up and not horizontally. They have some lovely homes. And some palatial places where the directors of the East India Company lived. It was them who helped generate all the 17th c Dutch wealth on the spice trade (the captain joked that part of it was marijuana 😂) and the great shipping fleet. Amsterdam was for the better part of the century the richest city in Europe.
After the canal ride, and RR heading off to rest, we went to the Rijk Museum, which we saw from the boat.
It is famous for holding the most Rembrandts in the world; it also holds the most Vermeers -- which K likes so much. She said she'd never seen four in a collection before, and only four together in an exhibition in DC once.
Then we ubered back to the flat. Uber rides have been a bit salty (30 euros regularly) and this driver, John, told us why: to Uber here you have to have same certification and insurance as a taxi. So, they charge more. Though RR pointed out there was an Uber option here to get an electric vehicle for less, which we'll look to do. Our ride from the museum was in a Veekj -- which he told us was Chinese. And rather mocked Americans for not allowing Chinese cars, though he admitted they tariffed it heavily, claiming it cost double what it would in China.
We napped, got up, with everyone feeling perkier, and went to the Thai place for dinner. K avoided getting hit by a bike, but to make note of all the near misses now would take multiple blogs. 😀. it's been a zoo out there. 😡
*****
Today was our last day here, as we fly out at 1130 to London, then from London at 4 to Newark. A long day (I realized that it would be 1:30 Amsterdam time, Friday, when we landed in Newark...and that ain't home yet 😡)
The good news was RR was better, though he admitted this evening that he was broken and would have to spend time at home to get mended. :)
We started the day with a short walk to a place I had scoped out, not very carefully, for breakfast. They had the full sit-down thing (as opposed to Tuesday's croissants on the fly). It turned out to be associated with a hotel, so there was this massive buffet, but the cost was more than we wanted. So, on to plan B. This was Greenwood's which had atmosphere on a canal (the canals have names, but they are, duh, in Dutch so understanding them all is iffy -- though I get brouwerscanal [brewers canal], which we were told the breweries were all on originally). Here's the food porn:
We had tickets (we thought) for the Van Gogh museum at 1245, so wondered how to kill the time. We went looking for a hop on, hop off bus, a la Brussels. The company didn't make it easy. 😡. After finding the spot on the map where it claimed the one stopped near Anne Franke House, we gave up on that one and RR said the next nearest one was 15 minutes. You will notice that we have now walked the first X, then another Y to Greenwood's, another Z to the Anne Frank House, and, finally, the "15 minutes" to the last stop.
We never saw a hop on/hop off bus. In the end, I said we could try to take the tram that was right in front of us and I saw it went straight to the museum district -- it turns out right in front of the Van Gogh museum. :) Brilliant move. I even found out you could pay with a tap.
A quick drink across the street (ok, I had a lemon muffin -- I didn't eat nearly all my eggs benedict and we'd walked a million miles) and...
Then to the Van Gogh Museum. Not surprisingly after yesterday, the tickets didn't work. The ticket taker took my phone, tried a bunch of things, then asked if she could make a phone call on it. Clearly, she wanted to talk to her grammy in Botswana :). She spoke to someone for a bit in Dutch, gave numbers and my name, which she spelled out in Dutch (it really doesn't sound recognizable) and told me it was a problem with Viator and I had no real ticket. So, I bought tickets and she let us in, though the sites claimed they didn't have tickets available for most of the day.
We're in.
I told RR when we finished that I had had about as much Van Gogh as I could take for about a decade; he kind of agreed, though he was quick to point out the brilliance of some of his work. True that. But I know I saw ten different self portraits (and a couple not self ones) of the man, and a lot of his early, not ready for prime time, work. He had one really good year, and that year he was quite productive, but it wasn't massive.
The building is huge, with three floors of displays. I guess I should hit you with this one, one of the highlights (along with the one at the top that I put so it'd be the thumbnail for this blog entry)
Called Almond Blossoms, he painted it for the birth of his nephew, also named Vincent, and it maybe his last finished painting.
The funny story of the day, maybe of the trip, took place after we were finished. I went to the "toiletten" and, as I came out, I turned and about bumped into a guy coming around the corner. I took a step back; he took a step back! I took a step forward; he took a step forward!!! I looked up and it was me!!!! 🤦 They both thought this was terribly funny.
Home for rest and then out for Dutch food for dinner. It was interesting, though no one claimed it was anywhere near the best meal of the trip.
This is the local dish called "bitterballen," which seems to be meat and cheese in a deep fried shell.
This is Dutch stew, which is a chunk of roast on celery puree. It was good.
K had the steak, again on a puree.
For what he said was maybe the 5th time on the trip, RR had the (Dutch) fish and chips; he said the best was still that from the food truck outside Edinburgh Castle two weeks ago.
And for dessert -- their version of apple tart, which was excellent. Yeah, rah.
We took a walk home not the direct way on purpose :) and came across this graphic example of how Amsterdam got its rep as a place where a lot goes -- and we didn't miss it ALL! :)
K acted all magnamious last night and told us we could go to the red light district without her and RR and I passed. :). Not sure we'd live through it. 😂
And that, my friends, is that. It's been fun, with lots of great times and lots of good food. I hope you've enjoyed. K and I have to get home to rest for the next two trips. :)
Until then, guten nicht.