Money, God, & Jamie Oliver

Michael & Barb,

Today was a bit different.  But it ended with a Michael favorite (as he will see).

It began with a late breakfast.  K & EH were up late watching *Revenge of the Siths* (Sky TV is showing all the Star War movies on a dedicated channel) & regaled me with their criticism of the direction & the acting, as well as the whole plotting.  No one was buying the motivation of Anakin to turn to the dark side.  Sigh.

Breakfast:

Then, eventually, off to the Museum of the London Docklands.  Which, unbelievably, is in the East End, in the Docklands.  Trivial fact: in 2000, in the first year of the London program, Collins, a young EH, and I were supposed to stay in a flat in the Docklands.  The agent, on the way there from the student hotel, took a call to find out the renter had decided to not move out that day and stay!  We stayed in Wapping (farther from downtown on the river) instead, but, upshot, never got to explore the area.  This is what it looks like from the light rail station:

Yes, there was money in these docks.  The exhibit indicated the earliest big money was made from the West Indies in sugar and slaves.  At one point in the 18th c, London was the largest slave market in the world.  & a quarter of the English economy came from trade with the islands. 

It wasn't until the middle 20th century that this international dominance subsided. 

From the docks we made our way west to St. Paul's cathedral, which we have visited before.  However, this time K wanted to sit through Evensong.  The best news about Evensong (for you non-Anglicans) is it was only 35 minutes long, with neither sermon nor Eucharist.  The downside is that it's like Legislative Assembly in that they give you a program but you still can't follow it. 

This is an illegal photo of the altar end (the west end) of the chapel. 

Your Sheldon Fun Facts for St. Paul's: there's been a church there from like 605.  The medieval cathedral was the largest wooden structure in Europe with the highest steeple.  Wooden.  The Great Fire of 1665 started about half a mile away and the church didn't survive.  The current structure was designed by the King's designer/architect Sir Christopher Wren (he also designed about 30 parish churches that were built after the fire in London).  The Wren design is one of only two domed cathedrals in England and one of the highest in the world.  It took 35 years to complete. 

If you look at this picture, you will notice a difference between it and the one of the west apse:

In the twentieth century, when they went to remodel and renovate, they found that the paint on the ceiling was 19th century and Wren's original design was more classical with lots of white.  The Victorians it seemed liked their embellishment, the design be damned! 

Then across the street to a Michael favorite -- Barbecoa, a Jamie Oliver restaurtant.  Of course there was lots of meat -- here's the 3 rib platter --

To the left is a St Louis style rib, on top, darkened, is a short rib, and beneath is a spare rib.  Meeeeeat! My cardiologist would be so proud.

Today's EH moment: "Of course, you get that kind of meat at a place called Barbecoa."  Why?  "You know that's the origin of the word barbeque?  From some tribe Columbus eradicated."  Right.  Like we knew. :)

And then dessert.  The thing on the right is sticky toffee pudding, there was some mention of bourbon in the toffee sauce...on the left is merely white chocolate cheesecake with a macaron.

And then, after a stop to buy tickets on the train for tomorrow, back to the flat in the rain.  In London! who knew?!?!?!?  Hope for decent weather tomorrow.  I promise neither good weather nor quality food porn from the provinces (as it's known here).

Episode III: Bad Kids on Pilgrimage

Today, we went to Canterbury.

But, first...one of several funny anecdotes from the day: K and I went & picked up pastries but the "Pret" (a FF breakfast place) got my order wrong -- instead of a pain au raisin, an almond croissant (afficionados will recognize they aren't interchangeable).  So, when we arrived at Victoria Station, I thought I would grab one (pain au raisin) before we got on the train.  We quickly purchased our tickets, found our platform and were at the turnstile when I said "we have 3 minutes, I can grab a pastry."  EH said "I thought you might have said THIRTY minutes"...LOL.  I got the pastry (a stand was next to the turnstile), but the tickets didn't open the turnstile & we ended up needing an attendant to open another door to let us through.  Meanwhile, the voice overhead said "the doors on platform 3 are about to close..." I jumped into the first door, then turned and K & EH made it just as the door slammed shut.  K gave me the knife eyes for part of the trip toward Canterbury.

We knew we were in the right place when we saw this:

That's the knight on the right, several nun's priests in the foreground, and a falconer in the background -- the reeve?  And, in the background, that's the great Westgate (of the medieval wall) into town.

So, it's almost noon by the time we get to town (doesn't the sunlight - yes! sunlight in England in December! - look like mid-day? :)) so we decide to have lunch before going to the Cathedral.  Bad move.

For two reasons: first, although EH chose Moroccan cuisine (the lamb and tabouli salad is pictured),

but before we had gotten our drinks there was a series of bangs at a nearby table (we were in the basement) and it turned out a customer had fallen and hit her head.  So, as we sat through lunch, EMTs came, then another set...we know "June" is 84, what her meds are, how much pain she was in and where (they asked repeatedly) and she's 84.  Her next of kin...her date of birth -- you get the idea.  No, we don't know if she turned out all right or not...you get it.

We walk the two blocks to the gate to the Cathedral and...they were closing?!?!?!?  A sign said that on Dec 29 they were closing at 1:30 for....a 3 o'clock service! Whoops.  WE are allowed onto the grounds, but not inside!

So we walked around.  The entry gate is on the southwest corner.  We walked around the outside and through the Dean's close on the north side and there was a list of services at the base of the Dean's stairs.  So we took the stairs and came in through the north door -- causing EH to say "you all are bad kids."  Clearly, she was NOT along, too. :)

We saw the inside, in some hurry, as they were herding people out the south door, but saw the main events, including the spot where Thomas a Becket was murdered in 1170.  Back in Michael's day. & were hurriedly ushered out. I was back in someone's good graces after sneaking in.

We went to the cathedral shop (of course there's a huge one, right?) but EH & I were disappointed you could buy neither vials of Thomas's blood nor a piece of a finger.  What kind of relics are we talking here, anyway?!

And then a long, tricky walk back to the other railroad station (yes, Canterbury needs two!) because, nearby was this castle --

You know, just a little thing thrown up by Willy the Conqueror to help protect the country he'd just won in battle.  Now almost 950 years later, it's still standing.

Then back to London and the flat.

For dinner, we went to a Michael Fav -- Zizzi's.  EH calls it "institutional Italian."  Here's the bruschetta

-- which you can see is better than institutional.

Tomorrow is London cultural sightseeing and gourmet dining.  Preview: serious food porn tomorrow. I think one of the specialities is pork belly on the side on everything (I think including dessert).  You know, everything is better with high end bacon.

And now, for those wondering about whether I have been ground into the English turf more than last time, my Fitbit's step counter screenshot.  Notice the neat pattern...):  Just sayin'...

Episode II: The Tourists Awaken

So, M & B --

Today, we got around "early."  Michael time.  We finished breakfast at Natural Kitchen (I was told for the last time) -- EH had porridge -- around 11.

The EH of the morning (a good example of the phenomenon) was: free range chickens eat more worms so protein, which means their yolks are a brighter yellow than those that are just grain fed.

Huh. (you can imagine the conversation before this tidbit)

Then to the Tate Britain ("home of the Turners"), which I did not get to visit in May-June.  This is EH's picture from there --

Having fumbled around with my Oyster card (the refillable pass for the Tube & bus), we taxied to Westminster Abbey and stood where I took this picture, waiting to pay 20 to get in -- this is the north side & if you know about such churches, you know the west end is where the big glass window is and the altar is in the east nave.

Here's illegal picture of the inside of the Abbey.

You can see the two Christmas trees, the garland on the pillars, and even a bit of the manger scene.  Illegal, though, remember. :)

Then, to the Cellarium, which is in the Abbey close, for high tea.  How "in the abbey"?

High Tea took forever (literally, over an hour) to deliver, and Jude Law never showed up as puffed by the web review ):  But the tea tray was pretty impressive, don't you think?

K & EH ate the cucumber sandwiches first (I HATE cucumber) -- we agreed the quiche and the clotted cream were the highlights.  The brownie (tier 2) was serviceable.

Then off to the play -- Terence Ratigan's *Harliquinade* starring Kenneth Branagh.  I suspect he called Michael for tips on how to play a "veteran" actor.  He was quite good and the play, which a review said was like "Noises Off", is a piece of fluff that is full of funny timings and lines from the wrong place -- they are rehearsing *Romeo & Juliet* and Branagh's character, the Romeo, becomes a grandfather during the play! He admits at one point he can't even see how it works.

With a post-procedure new record for steps (Michael will recognize May all over again) in the books, we go on to episode III -- out of town.

Episode I...in a country far, far away

So, it's time for another S road trip, but this time with a new set of sidekicks -- how did that work out for Bob Hope? -- but back to a familiar city -- London.

But this blog is about our Road to Morocco buddies, Michael and Barb, who sang along (Michael ALWAYS sings along...or alone) in our first big adventure in summer '14.  Here's the obligatory Bob & Bing screen shot (remember -- I'm the good looking, funny one who DOESN'T sing :) --



First, the point needs to be made: we flew the same airline Michael flew in May and June and WE HAD SEATS!!!  He'll know what I mean (and there are counter people at both JFK and Gatwick who'll know too :))

Second, I arranged a flat with the person who supplies them for the student program Michael and I have been a part of for some years.  It's less than a block from Baker Street tube station -- very convenient -- and it reminds us of Michael because he stayed in this building in 2012 and we visited and stayed here.  Well, technically, in the flat directly above the one we are in.  A nice two bedroom flat with two bathrooms for the 3 of us.  We think of this as "Michael's flat."


Third, we ate lunch at Natural Kitchen, a couple blocks from the flat (the great thing about staying in this area is there is lots to do nearby, like eat and a movie theatre, grocery stores, etc), which Michael and I ate at twice in the spring and he approved.  Here's dessert, a chocolate tart with toffee ice cream.  (Food porn #1)

Finally, after we all caught up on our sleep -- the hour on the plane didn't seem enough -- we went to a Michael favorite for dinner -- Wagamama's.  It is 50+ degrees here (like home), so nice weather for the .6 mile walk.  There EH (the nickname for these initials will be apparent by the end of this blog) had this -- chicken ramen with spicy chili:

And that's day one.  Day two is full-packed, so be ready, M &B!